Ouvert Toute La Nuit

Carolinesaid that if I wrote this no one would believe it, but it’s true, so . . . .

    On our first trip to Paris together around 1983 we checked into ahotel that had been recommended to us by a friend who had stayed there beforeand liked it a lot.   We arrived on agray rainy day following a 10-day stay in London where friends had lent ustheir house in Putney, although it really seemed as if they had lentus their entire London lives and outlook, and we experienced that city joyfully andgratefully.

    Caroline, looking very lovely with her London smile and Brown's of South Molton Street haircut, had a dreadful cold and Paris imposed a dissonant tonebeginning with the very first taxi ride from the airport.  When we arrived at our hotel reception, itgave off an ominous bad vibe, which translated into open hostility when an angry-lookingmale  clerk eventually descended from asort of raised alcove office to check us in. We were all American smiles and cooperative fluent-enough French, evenwhen we were shown to an ugly room in a back corridor on a low floor.  When the door closed, we looked at each otherand agreed that it was like being locked in a trunk.

    Despite Caroline’s malady,we decided to press on with the day and had a great afternoon, lunching atWilli’s Wine Bar (still extremely new, we learned of Mark Williamson and StevenSpurrier’s restaurant through our heavily-marked Gault-Millau Paris guide) anddropping in at the headquarters of J. Danflou, the famed producer of cognacs,armagnacs and eaux-de-vies.  (From ourguidebook we thought we’d be visiting a retail establishment, but these wereactually the Danflou corporate offices.  Theytreated us royally, insisting we sample a wide range of their amazing liquorssold in the famous medieval-shaped bottles, and M. Danflou himself stopped byto shake our hands and say rather portentously: “I love Americans, but I hateGermans.”)

    Later that evening afterturning in, Caroline woke up crying and practically on fire.  She asked me please to get her aspirin.  I dressed and visited the front desk, wherethe same devil from earlier in the day was on duty.  I asked him for several aspirin in perfectlyserviceable French and he told me that if I did not vanish from his sightimmediately he would call the police to arrest me.  I told him that would be fine; perhaps one ofthe gendarmes would have an aspirin on him.

    Getting nowhere fast, Itold Caroline what happened and seeing the look of desperation on her face Isaid that I knew that Paris had all-night pharmacies marked by green orblue-green crosses and I would visit one of those.  She looked really alarmed then, but I knew Ineeded to take care this. 

    We were in a perfectlylovely Parisian neighborhood and my nocturnal stroll felt very “I am aSurrealist in Paris out past midnight.” Louis Aragon and Andre Breton were definitely guiding my steps to thefirst druggist, who couldn’t have been more cooperative and furnished me with tablets, sore throat patentmedicine, soothing lozenges, etc.

 

Returningto our weird hotel, the sight of Caroline’s relieved face  wasuplifting and revivifying.  (Those were the dayswhen simple pleasures visited more often.) She took the pills and liquid and felt much better in the morning.  We phoned our friends, asked if we mightreturn to London to finish out our vacation with them (we were not tired ofLondon yet; we were not tired of life), spent one more terrific Run For YourLife Day in Paris (Eiffel Tower, Yves Saint Laurent, Saint-Chapelle,Montparnasse and the Latin Quarter), anddeparted Dodge for Londinium where we showed our friends things about Putneyand environs that even they didn’t know.

Artistic Temperament

 

“They talked of Yves’ aestheticism and his constant search for visual perfection, which led Bianca to ask, ‘Aren’t there qualities you look for in people?’ Yves’ reply is perhaps the most revealing public statement he has ever made about himself. ‘No’, he said, ‘because ultimately the qualities I see in people are what I perceive them to be. It is my vision of people that counts. It’s all projection. If I am deceived it’s my own doing. What interests me is my vision of others’.

‘Like all creators he has an appalling ego and so others don’t really count much for him because of that’, admits Pierre Berge now. ‘I am someone generous. Yves is not. I do not mean he is miserly. I mean he is someone who can only live wrapped up in himself. The outside world does not interest him. Voila! You know it is like every artist, every creator; they invent their own solar system just as he has done and the whole world turns around this sun and the sun is him. Voila! And the sun is not there to ask how the satellites are doing. He could not care less. But I do not mean that as a criticism.’”

From The Beautiful Fall by Alicia Drake

I

I wanted badly to add an "Yves Saint Laurent" cocktail as an addendum to this post, but couldn't find one.  Then I thought "why not find a "Marcel Proust" cocktail, since Saint Laurent was, for reasons I can't totally understand, obsessed with Proust.  Although I determined that such a cocktail did exist and was served at Le Grand Cabourg Hotel in Cabourg, Normandy, a former Proust haunt, I couldn't track down the recipe.  Therefore, I decided to include the Serendipity cocktail, as prepared by Colin, the bartender at the Ritz in Paris, apparently another place Proust liked to patronize.  It looks beautiful and delicious and it does include Calvados, which seems to be in right spirit:

Serendipity, the cocktail

Fresh mint
Ritz Champagne, ½ glass
Calvados 1/10th
Apple Juice

"Colin breaks off a handful of mint leaves and puts them in the bottom of the glass, using tongs to gently release the flavour, but taking care not to muddle them, which he says is very important: if you muddle them you crush and bruise the leaves, which is not good. He pours in the Calvados and then half a glass of Champagne, and then tops it up with clarified apple juice from Normandy. The finishing touch is a white orchid, or a red rose if it’s for a lady.

Serendipity is sublime. It’s a little bubbly, it’s light, it’s refreshing, and it goes down very easily. It’s a perfect drink if you’re in Paris in the spring."