Conjuror

        Conjuror:  A 19th-century device for cooking meat rapidly with burning paper as the fuel.  It seems to have been descended on 'necromancer' to which Hannah Glasse (1747) referred, ascribing its invention to an actor, Mr John Rich, and declaring it to be much admired by the nobility (in 1735).  However, the necromancer can be traced further back, to Bradley (1736), who gave a recipe for 'Thin Beef Collops, Stew'd.  From Oxford' which uses the same technique. Stead (1983) surmises from this that the method and the equipment might have been previously practised by students at Oxford University ('student bed-sitter makeshift cookery') but also utilized by the theatrical profession when in need of a hot meal and away from normal cooking facilities.

        The best description of the conjuror is Eliza Acton's in 1845, which was accompanied by a rare  illustration of the conjuror device (see title graphic above):

              'Steaks or cutlets may be quickly cooked with a sheet or two of lighted paper only, in the apparatus called the conjuror. Lift off the cover and lay in the meat properly seasoned, with a small slice of butter under it, and insert the lighted paper in the aperture shown; in from eight to ten minutes the meat will be done, and to be remarkably tender, and very palatable:  it must be turned and moved occasionally during the process.  This is an especially convenient mode of cooking for persons whose hours of dining are rendered uncertain by their avocations. The part in which the meat is placed is of block tin, and fits closely into the stand, which is of sheet iron.'



Text from Alan Davidson, The Oxford Companion To Food. Oxford, Oxford University Press, 1995

Killer Video Link:  Georges Melies, The Conjuror (1899)
 

Sir John Dee (1527-1608), Adviser and conjuror to Queen Elizabeth I of England. 

"The Prestige" (2006) (Slightly disappointing but worth seeing anyway. By Inception director/screenwriter Christopher Nolan.)

Compulsory Aleister Crowley photo (b. 1875- d. 1947)  (Several years ago, we visited Loch Ness and stayed at Craigdarroch House, a lovely small hotel adjacent to Crowley's Boleskine House "bad vibes" manse, later purchased by Jimmy Page, who apparently rarely visited the place.  I highly recommend the journey on all counts, but particularly for Loch Ness "monster viewing".)

Independence Dependence (July 4th Pancakes)

Maine lake and piney woods

        Jane was only home from Cambridge a few days before leavingfor summer camp in Maine.  She’s never been tosleep-away camp before and wanted to try it out.   Some other local girls attend this camp,which looks like a splendid place for our energetic, athletic daughter and,apart from the satisfaction I hope to take in making this further contributionto her development as an adolescent and independent person, Caroline and I willtravel to Maine to visit her mid-way through her summer, which will benice. 

State of Maine -- Admited to Union in 1820;  Capitol city is Augusta

        Despite the long planning that preceded her departure, itstill seemed sudden and rushed to me, with a lot of loose ends dangling, includingthe sizeable amount of unused pancake batter Jane left in the refrigerator.  Caroline, who has been suffering with adreadful flu-like illness that we suspect Jane brought back from the UK, discoveredit when she finally rose from her sick-bed yesterday looking for something to eat.

Chocolate-chip pancakes

       As a child (despite her budding maturity and rich andsophisticated sense of sarcasm, THE age-appropriate attitude and rhetorical device), Jane likes to make chocolate chip pancakes,something most adults do not prepare for themselves.  Recently, she has progressed from using theBisquick packaged pancake preparation (which is extremely good) to the traditional basic Joy ofCooking recipe.  It was this batter Janeleft behind, but with the key difference that her recipe this time included aquantity of excellent cut-up, locally grown Pennsylvania  strawberries. 

Maine blueberries

        Seeing Jane’s bequest, and also spying some unused, stillfresh local blueberries adjacent to them, Caroline combined that fruit intothe batter and prepared a remarkable, original (to us, at least) breakfast, onethat combined various dark, light, sweet and bitter notes.  After nourishing herself and retreating tobed, I tried the what remained of the pancakes while clearing the kitchen and formed the same, stillunspoken and not-yet-shared thought that she had  – that this would be a very good summerdessert recipe combined with some vanilla ice cream.  

 
Glorious strawberries

        When we actually spoke about our telepathic menu union, wefound that although we were basically on the same page (we both agreed, forinstance, that the quantity of dark chocolate chips needed to be reduced fromJane’s generous levels), there was one salient difference between us.  Caroline thinks we should stick with the Joyof Cooking recipe, but I think a lighter, “French-ier” crepe recipe would bebetter for dessert purposes.

French-style crepes

        We have been married for so long (and happily) that we areextremely familiar with each other’s personalities.  Therefore, on many occasions I have found that there are really nosubjects that are too trivial to argue about, so this discussion went on for a while.   Finally, we agreed totry both recipes (with chocolate chip and fruit quantitiesremaining approximate; really, that’s a question of personal taste) to see which version works best.  Should any reader care to essay for themselves this comparison/taste test, please let me know which preparation you prefer.  Given the red, white and blue elements in the dish, I would definitely say that this is fare suitable for July 4th celebrations.

Charles de Gaulle, President of France and First Lady of the United States, Jacqueline Kennedy, Paris, June 1961

        I’m distraught and somewhat despondent not having my daughter around,but I am doing the best I can to cope. Everywhere I visit, people ask about her.  It has become extremely clear that I have faded into the generalwoodwork of my own life. When I’m around Jane, I feel like President Kennedy must have felt when he said:  "I am the man who accompanied Jacqueline Kennedy to Paris",  as he began his June 2, 1961 press conference in Paris.  

Maine summer camp waterfront

        We’ll be visiting Jane in Maine toward the end of themonth.  Based on a couple of Maine visitsduring the past decade – the first since my own dreadful summer camping youth –Bob Dylan must have had me in mind when he wrote "I Shall Be Released"  -- I’m looking forward to the trip. Maine is really beautiful.

Recipes:

[1]   Basic Pancake Recipe:  This Mark Bittman pancake recipe, which was published in the New York Times, is very close to the Joy of Cooking recipe.  I've chosen to use it here because Bittman's recipes are generally excellent and extremely clear:

An important thing to remember about the cooking part is this -- that you have to preheat the skillet or griddle, or the first batch will be nearly worthless.   To determine when the pan is hot enough to take the batter, heat it over medium heat until a few drops of water skid across the surface before evaporating.  A well-seasoned cast iron pan will need little or no butter or oil, but if you choose stainless steel or aluminum pans, use plenty of butter, the net result will be that the pancakes will taste better.

Ingredients

2 cups all-purpose flour

2 teaspoons baking powder

1/4 teaspoon salt

1 tablespoon of sugar, optional

2 eggs 

1 1/2 to 2 cups of milk

2 tablespoons melted and cooled butter (optional) plus unmelted butter for cooking, or use neutral oil.

Method

Heat a griddle or large skillet over medium-low heat.  In a bowl, mix together dry ingredients. Beat eggs into 1 1/2 cups milk, then stir in 2 tablespoons melted cooled butter, if using it.  Gently stir this mixture into dry ingredients, mixing only enough to moisten flour, don't worry about a few lumps.  If the batter seems thick, add a little more milk.

Place a teaspoon or two of butter or oil on griddle or skillet.  When butter foam subsides or oil shimmers, ladle batter onto griddle or skillet, making pancakes any size you like.  Adjust heat as necessary, usually first batch will require higher heat than subsequent batches. Flip pancakes after bubbles rise to surface and bottoms brown, after 2-4 minutes.

Cook until second side is lightly browned. Serve or hold on an ovenproof plate in a 200-degree oven for up to 15 minutes.

Yield: 4-6 servings

Time: 20 minutes

[2] Basic Crepes Recipe (from Bon Appetit)

Ingredients 

2 large eggs

1/4 teaspoon salt

1 cup unbleached all-purpose flout

1 1/4 cups (or more) milk (do not use low-fat or non-fat)

Melted butter 

Method

Whisk eggs and salt in a large bowl.  Gradually whisk in flour, then 1 1/4 cups milk.  Strain into medium bowl.  Let stand 1 hour.

If necessary, add more milk by tablespoonfuls to batter to thin to consistency of heavy whipping cream.  Heat 8-inch diameter non-stick skillet over medium-high heat.  Brush with melted butter.  Pour 3 tablespoons batter into skillet and swirl to coat bottom evenly.  Cook until top appears dray, loosening sides of crepe with spatula, about 45 seconds.  Turn and cook until brown spots appear on second side, about 30 seconds.  Turn crepe out onto plate.  Repeat with remaining batter, brushing skillet with butter and stacking crepes onto plate.

Makes 8 crepes

Note:  Although this piece is clearly drafted in a slightly "misty" (as Maynard G. Krebs would say) mood, I live in expectation of Jane's return, showing her how to make crepes and then standing aside as she masters the skill and begins, as I know she will, to surpass the great masters of the art.  She's very good at this sort of thing.  I will also tell her about my father, who was something of a crepes suzette king, a talent, other difficulties notwithstanding, that lands clearly on the credit side of the ledger.

Credit side of the ledger (and its "other"). 

Preparing crepes suzette at Restaurant Laserre, Paris