INTRO:
Of my various 2011 "Christmas books" (they ranged fromvolumes of political analysis and invective to artistic, natural history andculinary works), my absolute favorite was The Cultural Revolution Cookbook by Sasha Gong andScott D. Seligman.
When I first read about the book's impending publication, Ithought it must be a sort of joke item. Remembering the CulturalRevolution, one tends to think about politicalterror, acts of terrible and confusing cruelty, social destruction and materialprivation, rather than cuisine.
During the Cultural Revolution
But Sasha Gong, a Chinese-bornAmerican academic whose family was relocatedfrom Guangzhou to Hunan province during the Cultural Revolution,significantly interrupting her schooling, has in this handsome, beautifullywritten and sensibly priced book, transformed proverbial lemons into lemonadeas she tells the story of learning by necessity to live, cook and eat simply in the countryside, growing, preparingand sharing pure, good and traditional food.
I have been cooking from the excellent,delicious recipes in this book non-stop and I am pleased to present you with one of Ms. Gong'ssimplest, easiest and best meals. If you want, you can elaborate on itby adding minced or sliced ginger, hot chilies or various types of pickledvegetables . It's splendid as is, however, and the title of this post,explained in the text following the recipe -- "Asclear as tofu and scallions" -- used as a simile for integrity orflattering sobriquet -- is an image I understand and find very moving.
Tofu
TofuWith Scallions and Sesame Dressing
Ingredients
1 scallion
1 cake firm tofu (bean curd)
2 tsp. sesame oil
Pinch of salt
Tofu was invented in 164 BC bya Chinese nobleman trying to make medicine, and it has taken its rightful place asa major source of protein in the Chinese diet. This amazingly simple dish is incredibly tasty,low in fat and high in protein. Use a firm bean curd to make it becauseit will hold its shape better this way.
Shred the scallion into verysmall pieces, cutting it on the bias to maximize surface area. Rinse the tofu and place it on a microwave-safe serving plate.
Warm it by microwavingit on high for one minute, or simply heating it very gently in a conventionaloven.
Remove the tofu from the oven, and with a sharp knife or cleaver, cut it up into small pieces about 1 ½ inches (4cm.) long, an inch (2.5 cm.) wide and about ½ inch (about 1.5 cm.) thick.
Sprinkle the scallion, sesame oiland salton top of the tofu pieces and serve while still warm.
Note: There were obviously nomicrowaves in the Chinese countryside during the Cultural Revolution, nordid peasants have convection ovens. They would simply have soaked the tofu – which would havebeen freshlymade – inhot water for 10 minutes to heat it up.
Sesame
“Supreme Instruction –
‘ Struggle against selfishness and criticize revisionism’”
This dish – its milky white bean curd a sharp contrast to the deep green of its scallions – provided a useful metaphor. Ifyour innocence was ‘as clear as tofu and scallions,” then anyone ought to be able to appreciate it.
Excerptedfrom: The CulturalRevolution Cookbook by Sasha Gong and Scott D. Seligman (Hong Kong, Earnshaw Books, 2011)
Scallions
OUTRO:
Iconfess a deep and profound love for Chinese bean curd. Although it is fine in this country, especiallywhen it is freshly made, it is out of this world in China.
Thinking about bean curd, which I probably do an abnormal amount,brings to mind the final testament ofthe Chinese poet Qu Qiubai, imprisoned and then executed by the Kuomitang because he was too ill to depart onthe October 1934 LongMarch. One of his final acts was composing a goodbyenote, "Some SuperfluousWords," which after praising flowers,moonlight and factory chimneys, concluded byrecommending "AnnaKarenina" and "The Dream of the Red Chamber" and stating, last ofall, that "the Chinese bean curd is the most delicious food in the wholeworld. Goodbye andfarewell!."
Qu Qiubai – "Some Superfluous Words"
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